The performance of the power supply and its safety?

Question

Electronics

Yesterday there was a strange bell - the mouse did not work on the laptop when connected to the network, but if you turn it off - everything is fine. The mouse is working. I disassembled the laptop power supply unit, to see what was there - and saw the following:



The power supply itself makes clicks, similar to the operation of a mechanical clock when disconnected from the laptop and to the buzzing of a mosquito when connected.
I myself am an absolute zero in this, and I am still in places remote from civilization, and that the help of a qualified master, that ordering a new power supply unit is almost unrealistic. This begs the question: is it safe to use, or maybe everything is all right with it?
And what else can be connected with that incident with the mouse?

Answer 1

The view of the PSU (network adapter) of the laptop from the side without details is nothing at all. Rosin streaks on the soldering points (brown spots) are normal.
Take a photo from the other side - we can see exaggerated electrolytes (capacitors).
A common problem is the power supply (current, efficiency) of the PSU drops. It manifests itself in the fact that when working from the PSU, the laptop slows down and does not charge. Only the switched off laptop is charged. I did not repair the PSU, it was always easier to stupidly replace it.
For safety: put the PSU on a plate (on a steel baking sheet, in a frying pan, ...). Without repair or replacement of the PSU, and if a laptop is needed, I see no other options. Such a power supply unit will not kill a laptop, but it is better to insure against a fire.

Answer 2

I liked the fact that the person does not understand anything, as he himself wrote, but the power supply was opened. And so it is not clear what happened to the block - rather soon RIP to him. The track was swollen - it needs to be restored. And the mouse is more likely not because of that.

Answer 3

Let's say your PSU has a brand identification, but you want to replace it with another PSU that matches the current and voltage, but has a 2-wire cable (i.e. no ID). It's possible, but it takes a little fiddling. The identification code itself is written in such a 3-legged little thing with the
inscription DALLAS (however, sometimes it happens to be 8-legged), although the number written on it will be different:

into the output cable board), and carefully cut off the section of the board with it, the elements surrounding it (there are resistors that ensure its operation) and soldering the output cable. The size of the cut off is unlikely to be more than half a postage stamp.
In the new PSU, it is necessary to unsolder its output cable, and to those two points where it was soldered, solder (with short pieces of insulated wire) a piece of the board with Dallas and the outgoing output cable. When doing this, do not reverse the polarity! Then wrap a piece of the board with electrical tape and put it inside the power supply unit, where there is a place (there is not much of it, but you can find it), and bring the cable out, as the previous one came out. Next, we will try the alteration by connecting it to the laptop, and if it works, then close the PSU case (it is possible with glue, but it is enough on the rubber rings from the bike chamber). Everything!