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First DSLR kit (Canon 600D)
Habrausers, who understand photography, help me choose a camera bundle...
I
'm going to buy the first SLR camera in my life, so the questions can be very simple ) 55-250mm. 1) What do you think, which bundle is better to choose?
2) I am currently using a Canon SX100IS camera which has a "10x zoom" and a 6-60mm lens. I understand that the "multiplicity" of the zoom is calculated by dividing 60/6 (or 135/18). In this case, it turns out that the zoom ratio of the 18/135 lens is lower. However, it has a higher maximum focal length.
So the question is - which lens allows you to better "zoom" the required objects - the one with a higher magnification, or the one with a higher max focal length?
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I advise you to take a double whale with 18-55 + 55-250. The largest scale will be at 250mm of the second lens, all other things being equal.
The total zoom of the set will be 250\18 = 13.8 (the ratio of the size of one object taken at 18mm and at 250mm).
Of the inconveniences - two lenses are heavier and it takes time to replace.
18-135 lens is so-so, for a C grade.
In other words, the one who has the focal length is closer
According to your current camera:
"Focal length (35 mm equivalent) 36 - 360 mm"
So in the focal length (and therefore the maximum approximation) you lose. True, believe me, shooting without a tripod at focal lengths above 200 in most cases (little light / dynamic subject) is very difficult.
And yet, there is such a belief that the smaller the zoom ratio (that is, the difference between the minimum and maximum focal lengths) - the better the output will be the picture.
Personally, being in your place, for a start I took exactly 2 lenses.
The Canon SX100IS has a focal length (35mm equivalent) of 36 - 360mm.
The Canon 600D has a 1.6 crop, i.e. 250mm X 1.6=>400mm, zoom will be slightly better. At the same time, any set of the indicated ones will be wider (18x1.6 = 28.8) - it will fit more into the frame than on the Canon SX100IS
And so, look what is your priority - if convenience - take 18-135, if there is a larger zoom (13.8) and slightly better image quality - 18-55 + 55-250
Take 18-135 - a good lens for everyday shooting for an amateur, you will not regret it.
If you need a telephoto camera for shooting from afar, then you need a hefty investment. Either the same 55-250 (but I don’t advise it, the lens is so-so), or 70-300 IS USM (more expensive, but very good quality), or 70-200 (but as I understand it, aperture is not so important to you? Will you shoot on the street? ), or something from tamrons or sigmas, which I don’t understand well.
If you plan to shoot outdoors in bright light, then you can also pay attention to extendors - they are inserted between the lens and the camera for a larger focal length.
With these lenses, you won't see the difference in your prints because these are all "dark" budget zooms.
Buy an EF 28 f/1.8 or EF 50 f/1.4 prime and shoot and enjoy the picture.
Yes, it’s inconvenient, but why else would a DSLR be needed if the result is like that of a soap box ?!
IMHO advised here is often nonsense.
1. 650D is not much better than 600D, only a touch screen and minor improvements have been added, but the price is much higher. Judge the price on amazon.com
2. In normal stores, the price of a double whale is always less than the price of a regular whale + 55-250 separately.
3. 55-250 is a good budget lens, with stabilization, lightweight, easy to shoot during the day with hands. For the price of a double set (about 150% of the difference, the option is excellent)
I would take the first lens with a larger aperture than a whale.
for example, something like that ... from inexpensive ones, I myself use this one instead of the
Tamron TAMRON SP AF 28-75mm F / 2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical [IF] MACRO whale
from telephoto ones, then that 55-250 is not bad for my money.
something like this
The next question is - what do you want to use the camera for?
For my tourist trips, I made the following choice (I have a cropped Nikon, but I think the meaning will be clear):
1. Whale 18-105mm. For tourism, the very thing is not very heavy, and allows you not to carry 2 lenses with you at once, because. covers the required focal lengths. Zoom ~ 5.8 is quite enough - in extreme cases, you can crop the photo a little. For a home photo collection is not critical. Another plus of a whale with a wide range is that you can cheaply understand what focal lengths you need in order to buy an expensive fast lens later.
2. Fix 50mm.I love shooting portraits and for crop this is one of the best solutions + it takes up very little space and in the same tour. You can take the trip with you. The same Canon EF 50mm f / 1.8 II, found offhand, costs quite a penny, but allows you to get, as I suspect, very good pictures.
You should have indicated in the post for what purposes the fotik will be used. If zoom is required, then of course 55-250 is worth taking.
If the usual amateur goals, then I would recommend saving up for a Canon 15-75 instead of a whale, the quality will be noticeably better.
IMHO, it's not worth taking 650, better than 600 (if the budget is limited), you won't notice the difference.
Yes, the choice does not shine.
55-250, 18-135 and so on gives a disgusting result. Such porridge at the long end (135/250) will no longer suit you after two shootings, but hardly anyone will want to buy these lenses.
To begin with, the choice should be stopped at 15-85, or, if you don’t want to sell it at all later, then 17-40. Further to it, either 100-400 or 70-200 with the aperture and stabilizer that you can afford. Over time, change the camera itself.
It is unreasonable to buy a "fifty kopeck" so beloved by everyone for three thousand for a cropped camera. It's just the cheapest after 18-55. :) If you want a universal fix for crop, then take either 35 mm or 28 mm in any reincarnations.
My 5 kopecks in terms of choosing 650D vs 600D. There is a comparison site:
snapsort.com/compare/Canon-600d-vs-Canon-EOS-650D
There are several points where the 600D is better. Not much. It's mostly about picture quality (dynamic range, color depth).
There are a few more points where the 650D is better.
For example, the 650D has one stop higher maximum ISO sensitivity. But at the same time, judging by the item: “Lower noise at high ISO”, in which the 600D wins by 0.1 stops, there is a suspicion that it will still be impossible to use the 650D at maximum sensitivity due to high noise. This is an assumption. I did not hold both devices together at the same time, I did not test the noise level.
The 650D also has autofocus in video mode. Well, and so on. There is a detailed table.
How important all these advantages are for you, I do not know. Decide for yourself.
But for me personally, there are two points, because of which the 650D is unique: “Startup delay”, that is, the cold start time. More than twice! I don’t know about anyone, for me it is important.
"Shutter lag", that is, the delay between pressing the button and the shutter being released. Here the difference is small, but still there.
For me personally, the cold start time of one and a half seconds for the 600D is unacceptably long.
To begin with, I would advise you to read the pack Sensibly about photography .
Then look at the twentieth trunk forum , although everything is complicated there, but there is useful information.
And then choose.
My little five kopecks:
When in 2005 I was going to buy my first DSLR, I thought about taking a “bigger” zoom, but smart people dissuaded me, explained that the main thing in SLR cameras is LENSES. As a result, I took two lenses 24-70 / 2.8L and 70-200 / 4L, then there were a few more, but it doesn’t matter, the important thing is that the camera has already been changed to another, but the lenses are still pleasing.
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