Imax b6 (Fake, claimed power 80w). How to flash and how to flash?

Question

Iron

There is this miracle: ru.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-iMax-B6-Digit... At first he behaved decently, but then he began to recharge the banks and show a cosmic voltage of 90 volts. Having opened it, I found such a microcontroller i.hizliresim.com/em9ba4.jpg, quartz at 12 MHz. I decided that it was Atmega, just in a Chinese case without inscriptions. The firmware according to the recipe of this article: habrahabr.ru/post/250661 resulted in white squares on the display www.upload.ee/image/3002181/P1030248.JPG, (The images are not mine, but everything looks exactly the same). Is it possible to flash this micro in any way? Please help me find what I need. Thanks in advance.

Answer 1

I advise you to read here forum.rcdesign.ru
There was a whole topic about clones.

Answer 2

It was a bad idea to flash the Chinese product with the expectation that everything is the same as in the original. In any case, if after the "firmware" the firmware did change (white squares appeared), then the firmware ports and the protocol were the same as on the original, that is, there is the same atmega, probably either something went wrong in the process or something went wrong fits in the periphery, for example, some spi displays have a non-standard number and another one was specified in the firmware, in this case it can be assumed that the firmware was completed "successfully", but there is no display, you can check by trying to charge something (preferably something that is not a pity, because it's not clear what's going on).
Who else might be unlucky and downloaded the firmware with a bug, because. judging by the project on githab 4 hours ago there was a commit "LCD fix" in it, it may have already been fixed and you just need to repeat the procedure with fresh firmware. If it does not help, you can try to contact the author of the firmware, perhaps he will tell you which way to dig.
Regarding the inadequacy of the work, as Serozha said, the problem is most likely in the hardware, because the firmware "does not deteriorate", and the hardware is easy.

Answer 3

I have the same thing, I worked for several days, and started to give out crazy voltage, so I'm thinking of flashing, I would like to find the firmware for our clone.

Answer 4

Exactly the same clone I have 80W. The chip is without a name and it's not an ATMega. (I saw it on some site) I
also stopped charging and just had a restart ... I tried to discharge a 1.2V battery, and there 58 Volts. There is no calibration menu. But! When you hold stop + start and turn on the power, six numbers of 4.2V each appear on the screen, and they, the devil knows how, are constantly changing. In short, we apply voltage to the output of about 25.2V and after waiting a bit we turn it off. With the usual inclusion, everything worked for me!
25.2V had to be changed, because. The voltage on the battery during charging did not match what was shown on the screen.
For some reason, the current of the memory always gives out more than what I set, I don’t want to change the resistors yet, it’s only been charging for a week)

Answer 5

I also became the owner of this clan. Has anyone been able to identify the MC?
All Atmels have multiple ground pins. In the same stone, it is only on the 39th leg.

Answer 6

I beg your pardon, I wanted to write an answer, but for some reason it turned out to be a comment .....
I have just such a green clone on Arduino! And it is by no means difficult to set up, as it turned out! For calibration, I took six Syma batteries and connected them in series with the output of the balancing connector. Akki were balanced in advance with a standard charger from the same Syma! The voltage on each cell was 4.19 volts.
For the correct operation of this clone, it is necessary to connect the 6S Li-Po to the balancing connector and the load "+" and "-" to the iMax B6 terminals when the charger is turned off! Then hold down the two control buttons Stop(Batt.Type) + Enter(Start) and, without releasing, connect the power to the iMax B6, after a couple of seconds, release the buttons! Wait until all 6 numbers on the screen calm down (about 10 seconds) and turn off the power! All devices are ready for normal operation!
Yes, he most likely has an ARDUINO controller, which is why it is not like the others. For this reason alone, it does not remember any test voltages, calibrations of each cell, except for the voltage of the connected 6S battery with its obligatory connection to the balancer connector! Only with this connection, the controller programs itself to work with balancing connectors, and if you just apply 25.2 volts to the load terminals, then we get half the working charge!
And most importantly, do not forget that this is not a welding machine and not a load rheostat! Charge currents for it are not more than 2 A! A discharge current above 1 A is also not recommended! Hefty low-power load resistors he has are those on the bottom right on the board, near the load connectors "+" and "-".
I spied on a video from the Chinese, these green clones work with an open top cover and in a floor refrigerator, so draw conclusions about cooling!
Good luck to all!