How do I change the lamp control circuit through the Arduino so that the transistor turns on?

Question

Arduino

A circuit was assembled similar to that indicated on ergoz.ru/electronics/arduino/arduino-n-channel-mos... :

( storage5.static.itmages.ru/i/14/0731/h_1406838465_... )
Were used:
Arduino Mega 2560;
Resistor, 10 kΩ, 2 W;
MOSFET transistor IRFZ44N, V(DSS) = 55 V, R(DS) = 17.5 mΩ, I(D) =
49 A : triatron.ru/upload/specification/27-01-IMPORT/25-I... ); Halogen lamp JC G4, 20W, 12V; Switching power supply EN5000S, 12 V, 5 A, 60 W; Solderless breadboard, jumpers;
The gate of the transistor was connected to the PWM pin of the Arduino, for which the analogWrite(pinNumber, signal) function was used. Both the sketch specified in the manual and the trivial change of analogWrite(pinNumber, HIGH) and analogWrite(pinNumber, LOW) with a frequency of 1000 ms were used.
There were three identical transistors in total. When the first one was connected to the circuit, the current flowed, regardless of the signal from the Arduino, the light bulb burned with a constant power (apparently, the transistor was broken):

( storage5.static.itmages.ru/i/14/0731/h_1406838465
_... ) current did not go, regardless of the signal. Changing the PWM to pins 5 and 3.3 in Arduino did not give anything:

( storage6.static.itmages.ru/i/14/0731/h_1406838465_... )
Close-up connection to the breadboard:

( storage8.static.itmages.ru/i/14/0731/h_1406838466_... )

Answer 1

IRFZ44N is a good transistor, but your voltage may not be enough for it, and 3.3 volts is certainly not enough. Take one of the IRL series, I used to often use IRL2703 or IRL2705.
Don't forget to look at graph #3 in the datasheets, and indeed at the datasheet itself.
You now have many points of failure, they need to be checked separately. Try turning the transistor on/off yourself by applying 0 or 10 volts to the gate. In this case, the gate must be closed to ground through a resistor greater than 10 kΩ, so that the accumulated charge is absorbed.
It is imperative to check the transistor, because they are quite sensitive to static, and are offended when they are touched with wet hands.
I don't use an arduino (moreover, I'm an arduino hater), but "a trivial change of analogWrite(pinNumber, HIGH) and analogWrite(pinNumber, LOW) with a frequency of 1000 ms" - is that correct? In my opinion, in this variant it is necessary to use digitalWrite.
Some kind of stupid circuit, what does "0-60V+" and "0-60V-" mean? This is clearly from the thoughtlessness of the author of the scheme. Could you accidentally confuse + and - because of this?
PS I read the site ergoz.ru, it's just violence against the brain. You can not learn from such manuals, unless if you do not respect yourself, the entire text is a literal translation from English:
* the invention of self-made terms, such as "pull-down resistor" or "gate";
* solid tracing papers from English (for example, "Arduino really pulsates from 0 to 5V");
* Incorrect explanations of processes. "be sure to make sure that you connect the diode correctly <...> otherwise it will be of no use, and may even make it worse." The person has no idea what he is talking about.
Find a normal training site, but rather throw this arduino in the trash.

Answer 2

Wow)) My article. In general, it was a translation from the bourgeois net, only the source was lost. As for the transistor, they correctly said earlier, this one is too strong, it still needs to be strapped.
Regarding the circuit - the bourgeoisie often draw like this (often met), it means that the circuit works at 0-60 volts, and then it just shows which wire is responsible for what, as one bourgeois told me - there are simply circuits with several power supplies, so in order to it was clearer which line where so denoted.