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Reliable soldering
There are monitor headphones with a broken cable (4 wires: left, right, microphone, ground) and a 3.5 mm plug (mini jack), again, with a broken one. I solder them and isolate them.
The problem is that when you accidentally pull on the headphones, all connections can break extremely easily. Can you suggest a life hack to prevent this from happening? Maybe strong solder or fixing a section of wire. The question may seem strange, but I'm new to this business.
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The solder should not break. And no heat shrinkage, glue and electrical tape will solve the problem. With proper soldering, the wire itself should break (in a different place), and the solder should remain intact. Your problem is either poor wire stripping, or a small amount of rosin. The wires must first be tinned: they should be completely covered with a layer of solder and it should not fly off when you try to scrape it off. He must hold on tight. Often, Chinese wires themselves are of very poor quality and quickly oxidize / darken. They are dark even under insulation. Also, they can be covered with a protective varnish, you can not solder to it!
After removing the insulation from the wire, carefully strip it with a knife from all sides - so that it shines. Soak the tip of the soldering iron in rosin, take solder on it and tin the wire. Or, take the solder on the soldering iron, and put the wire on the rosin and dip the soldering iron into it (rosin means hard). If the wire is properly stripped, the solder will instantly “wrap” it from all sides. If even after stripping this does not work out, you will need an active flux, you can buy it in radio shops. It can be harmful to health, so use it carefully.
If you properly tin and then solder the wires, they will never break in this place in their lives. Of course, you can twist the wires before soldering, but professional installers consider this technique to be in bad taste. :) Yes, in principle, and it's useless.
I will add that the Chinese sometimes use incomprehensible material, which, in principle, is not soldered. I came across such wires, they are white like aluminum. I never understood what it was. They can only be crimped or welded, the soldering iron will not “take” them.
Already broken? Or do you think so?
IMHO, the strength is not much lower.
If there is time and opportunity, it is easier to disassemble the headphones, buy a jack, and solder the wire directly to the headphones / microphone - the jack.
To be "not a single gap." At the same time, pick up an acceptable length.
Solder, test(!) and then fill with polymer or epoxy adhesive so that it adheres to strong parts that will not tear.
cut the wires with a herringbone so that the soldering points do not coincide with adjacent wires.
do not cut off the insulation completely in a circle, but cut off half along the wire for a length of about 3-4 cm, this is for both wires.
after soldering, the long halves of the insulation will cover the place of soldering and should overlap by about 5-10 mm on another wire, to the place where the insulation is not cut off. then either heat shrink or electrical tape.
reliability is ensured due to the fact that you will pull not by the wires but by the insulation.
If the wire is long and the appearance is not very disturbing: put two wires with the ends in one direction, tie a knot (all wires together), then solder as usual and tighten with heat shrink for prettiness. In total, there will be no load on the solder at all, since the entire load is on the node). I did this - two years the flight is normal)
Solder the wires with heat shrink. Plant shrinkage. take a strong thread (polymer) or fishing line (this is worse). The piece should be long enough to overlap the soldered piece, plus 5-10 millimeters overlap on the cable. Then wind the thread to the cable with a thin nylon thread (for sewing). On the one hand and on the other. Then impregnate the sewing threads with cyanoacrylate (superglue). After that, you seat this entire beard on top with heat shrink (only gently and quickly, the target audience does not like heat !!!). With this method, the cable insulation will come off, but the thread will survive =)
in case it is not possible to show, then the soldering of wires from several cores should look like this, a “ladder”
---*---------------
-------*- ----------
-----------*------- -------
*---
then when tension, they will experience the load at the same time.
but in general, skill rules in soldering, maybe you just have a low quality of soldering, if, as you say, you rarely hold a soldering iron in your hands. so practice separately, on other wires, and then solder the subject
You can use heat shrink tubing with an adhesive layer. It looks the same as the usual one, but it is covered with a thin layer of hot glue on the inside. The glue will stick to the cable insulation and to the jack insulation.
You can also use a cable with a thread inside and tie this thread to the eyelet in the jack (it is usually there), so that when you pull on the cable, the thread is pulled, not the wires.
Thoroughly tin, solder with lead, do not overheat the soldering iron and solder
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