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Artur Kulgunin2014-02-26 18:50:44
Solar panels
Artur Kulgunin, 2014-02-26 18:50:44

How to match the solar panel (battery) to the LED strip (5 meters)?

Let me tell you right off the bat, I'm new to this. I'm studying to be a chef.
There is an advertising stand in the yard, in which you need to mount an LED strip (5 meters, 12 volts, with a consumption of 50 watts) to illuminate at night. We decided with the guys to try to connect this business for ourselves not through the central electrical network, but a solar battery + a controller with a timer (for automatic switching on only at night) + a battery.
If I understand correctly, then we calculate watts per hour:
The tape will work for about 9 hours a day (from 11 pm to 8 am), which means it will consume 50 watts * 9 = 450 watts per day.
We use a 40 watt solar battery (polycrystals).
We use a 10A controller with a timer.
The total insolation in our region in the spring is approximately 25-30 kWh
UPD: If you need accurate marking of components with TTX, I can provide.
UPD2: In the future, we may try to connect to Arduino, write a sketch and install a light sensor + GSM module so that the backlight can be controlled from a mobile phone.

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Sleepwalker_ua, 2016-01-31
@Sleepwalker_ua

1) will be expensive. Highly. And the most expensive part will be the battery - you need a capacity of about 600-800 Wh (margin for degradation, self-discharge, non-ideal efficiency and weather conditions) - and this in your case turns out to be a car battery somewhere around 65-70Ah, you will find the prices yourself in your region, but under 100 c.u. It can be cheaper but at a great expense to reliability and will add hemorrhoids in assembly and maintenance.
2) The calculation of solar panels is simple - take modules with a margin of 25-30 percent at least for degradation and non-ideal weather conditions.
Conventionally, you need to get about 500Watt hours per daylight hours, i.e. solar battery power should be higher -- about 70-80W. It is better to take with high voltage and low current and then adjust to the battery voltage (13.8-14V in the cycle).
And I would also add the ability to turn on the sign when the battery is recharged to prevent a breakdown.
It’s easy to assemble - the panel through the converter to the battery, from the battery through the relay (with an arudin) and another converter (to maintain a stable voltage of 11.5V at the output in any conditions, and lowered so that the tape lives longer) to the LEDs. + hang on the same arduino battery voltage monitor - if below 10.8V, forcibly cut off the power supply to the tapes and go into low power mode.

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